Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
